A portion of this article appeared in the Carpe Wine column on the Vail Daily, written by Elaine Schoch.
Tis the season for everything orange and pumpkin spice, including wine. I’m referring to orange wine, which has nothing to do with pumpkins, may have a little spice, and is not made from oranges…as I let the salesman at the local wine shop know as he began leading me to the fruit wine section.
I admit, the term orange wine is a little misleading, but given its cool amber color, it’s easy to understand why people categorize it this way. Orange wine is technically skin-contact white wine, which refers to a unique winemaking process for white wines. In this method, the juice from the white wine grapes are allowed to ferment with their skins, seeds and stems for varying periods, ranging from several hours to multiple months. This method is different from what we consider typical white wine production, where the skins, seeds, and stems are removed before fermentation.
The technique used to make orange wines mirrors the process used in red wine production, where extended contact with the skin, seeds, and stems imparts color, body, and tannins to the wine. Similarly, in skin-contact white wines, the winemaker deliberately lets the white grape juice macerate (soak) with its skins, seeds, and stems. This prolonged contact enhances the wine’s color and body, resulting in a more complex flavor and textured wine.
There are a variety of grapes used for orange wines, everything from chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, Riesling, and Pinot grigio. Really, any white wine grape can and is used for orange wines. Several times, you’ll find blends of skin-contact white wines in your bottle. In Italy, you’ll find they use Pinot grigio, which produces an awesome coppery-colored wine. They call it “ramato,” meaning copper in Italian.
Depending on the grapes and how long the winemaker lets the skins hang out, you get all kinds of different wines. Some orange wines might trick you into thinking they’re more of a red wine, given the tannins that leave you with that mouth-drying feel. Others could be all savory and herb-like. Ultimately, winemakers can create a diverse range of styles within this category.
Whether it’s referred to as orange wine, ramato, amber or skin-contact white wine, this unique style of winemaking is having a real moment right now. But, contrary to popular belief, orange wines are not a new fad. Their origins trace back millennia to the Republic of Georgia. This ancient winemaking technique has deep roots in Georgian culture, where indigenous Rkatsiteli grapes were traditionally fermented and aged on their skins in large terracotta vessels called qvevri.
The countries of Georgia and Slovenia are masters of making stellar orange wines, but finding them on the shelves and wine lists can be hard. (If you find one, snag it.) The good news is, orange wine is now being produced by winemakers around the world, making it easier to explore both this old-world winemaking process and new wine regions.
Here are a few of my favorite recommendations you can find online or in your local wine shop.
Elaine Schoch is an award-winning travel writer, wine judge, American Wine Specialist and certified by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET II). At Carpe Travel she shares wine travel destination guides for ALL WINE LOVERS – from novices to experienced pros – to help them plan their wine adventures, arming them with insider tips, must-visit spots, and things to see and do beyond the vines.